Kompong Cham Province View

Kampong Cham isn't a city chock full of tourist attractions, but it's colonial charm and atmosphere will endear itself to you. There are a few temples to see in the area, including one of the country's mass graves.

Nokor Wat. An Angkorian temple dating from the 11th century, containing a standard assortment of Angkor architecture. Some of the mausoleums are open to tourists and contain piles of bones and skulls from the Khmer Rouge's genocidal reign. Inside one of the buildings is a very elaborate series of wall paintings, depicting torture and executions (of a religious nature), followed by scenes of heaven and the afterlife. This is not always an accessible building, as a Monk has to unlock it for you to enter. He usually does, though your driver may ask you to refrain. To get there by bicycle follow the road to Phnom Penh

• for about 1 km and turn left when you see a dusty road going down through a gate (there's also a sign). The visit to this site can easily be combined with a trip to the mountains Pros and Srei.
  

• If you are interested in traditional Cambodian dances, there is a daily performance at 5 p.m. in the Wat Nokor (Nokor Bachey Temple) by the children and teenagers looked after and educated by BSDA, a Non Governmental Oranization (NGO) located at the temple site and managed by the monks. Entrance is free, donations are certainly welcome. No need for reservations.

• There is also a French lookout tower on the other side of the river, once used for monitoring river traffic. It's still standing but in a decaying state. You can climb the stairs inside the tower and have a good view on the bridge, the Mekong and the small village next to the tower. The stairs are difficult and dangerous to climb, however.

• An abandoned US airstrip that has been used by B52 bombers is a short distance west of town. To get there take the Highway 7 to Phnom Penh for about 3 km. Just before the factory on the left hand side (looks a bit like a prison) there is a dirt road going to the right between street vendors and two red-white striped poles. Follow this road for about 2.5 km. There is not much left to see apart from the pavement of the airstrip and two decaying buildings next to it - a pillbox and the control tower probably. Leaving the airstrip on the left (west) will eventually lead to Mountain Pros and Srey. Going right (east) to the end of the strip and turning right again will lead you back to Kompong Cham.

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Kampong Cham features a few markets, but the best is the one the locals use. It features all sorts of food, ranging from standard mangoes and other fruits, to pig heads and live fish. As with all other food places in the area, use common sense when buying here, as there are health hazards to the unsuspecting Westerner. It's just down the road from the Mekong Crossing restaurant, but stalls only open during daylight hours. Some food and juice stalls stay open until late, i.e. 9 pm.

• Cambodia Public Bank (5-7, Ph Angduong, coming from the bridge turn right at the roundabout from where it is about 200 m) exchange money and has an ATM accepting VISA, MasterCard and Maestro. This is the last ATM when heading north until Pakse in Lao.

• Canadia Bank, not to be confused with Canada, this bank is wholly Cambodian owned. This particular branch doesn't take baht, and exchanges money at a slightly poorer rate (approximately 4,000 riel to the USD) than you'll get at your guesthouse or on the street. They will cash traveller cheques and offer free advances on MasterCards. Best to avoid this one unless you need to replenish your supply of American cash while you're in town.

• Acleda Bank (31-33, Ph Khemarak Phomin) also has an ATM but doesn't yet accept international cards. They can change dollars and Thai baht only but they accept traveller cheques. Western Union services are also available.

• Money changers are available throughout the city, particularly in and around the markets - look out for packets of money on display. They will give you a slightly better rate than the banks but you have to ask around for the best deal. Some of them do also change other currencies than dollars such as Thai baht and Vietnamese dong. Occasionally, other western currencies are changed as well but expect a poor rate. It is not possible to change Lao kip.

• Internet cafes, there are a couple of internet cafes around town, especially on Ang Duong Street between the market and the bridge over the Mekong. The going rate is 2,500 riel per hour.